5 Weeks in Europe: 8 Au Pairs, 3 Kids, 2 Grandmothers, & 1 Mom

The Land of the Midnight Sun - Sweden. First stop: Koping

2010-09-04T02:36:00.000-04:00

So, in the interest of full disclosure, I'm now home (arrived in PA on August 26), but I'm going to finish my story (or at least work towards finishing it). I'd like to have a written journal of our travels so that I can remember this amazing journey...plus, our trip would just seem unfinished without it.

From Eckernforde, we drove to Luebeck where we caught a 4pm flight to Stockholm. This was on Monday, August 9. We flew Ryan Air for a mere $38 per person...but, there's a catch. Ryan Air is super low budget so amenities like checked luggage, seat assignments, and priority boarding are all extras. Plus, they are very strict about their weight restrictions on luggage. So, whether you're carrying on your luggage or checking, you must stay within a certain weight requirement or you are charged. Well, as you can imagine, we had been collecting a few items during our journey and were a bit worried about the weight of our luggage. Karsten had a handy tool that weighed each bag, so after some adjusting and shifting of some items from one bag to another, we managed to get all seven of our bags under (some by a hair) the 15 kilogram weight limit.

Ryan Air flies into a small airport south of Stockholm (Skavsta) near a town called Nykoping. Johanna Zetterlund and her mother Christina (Stina, for short) were so kind to meet us at the airport (a good 1 1/2 to 2 hour drive from their town of Koping) even though we were renting a car. It was great to see Johanna again...for the first time in maybe three years.

The Swedish coast was beautiful from above - dotted with many, many small islands.

More tiny islands as we approached Stockholm.

We drove to Johanna's home where her father, Bjorn (sorry to all my Swedish friends -- I don't have a Swedish keyboard to make all your special letters!) had champagne and dinner ready for us. As had become the norm with the boys (not so much for Hannah), they were very shy during the first day or so, and our first night in Koping was no exception. Bjorn, however, was terrific with the boys and did his best to draw them out a bit.

The Zetterlund home in Koping. If a Swedish home isn't red (see photo of cottage at lake below), it is this color yellow.

We enjoyed a champagne toast upon our arrival. Yes, the non-Swedes in the photo are the really short people!

Johanna and Hannah - happy to be together again.

Daniel and Bjorn were goofing around and exchanged glasses. They both look pretty good!

After a good night's sleep, we left late in the morning for Stockholm. I was very excited to see this city - I had heard so many wonderful things about it. Stockholm is about 1 1/2 hours east of Koping. Stina drove with Terry and my mom and Johanna drove with me and the kids.

Johanna and Dan after arriving in Stockholm. We stopped to get a drink and a small snack.

Our first stop (after getting a coffee and a snack for the kids) was the Vasa Museum (click here for website for Vasa Museum). The Vasa is a huge ship built by King Gustav II Adolph and sailed for a mere 20 minutes before sinking on August 10, 1628 (coincidentally 382 years to the day of our visit). The ship was pulled from the sea off the coast of Stockholm in 1961 and now sits in a museum. You can view the ship from several levels, see personal items found in the ship, walk inside a replica of the inside of the ship (very tight quarters!), AND view skeletons of some of those who perished (my boys' personal favorite). We had planned to stop for an hour tops, but the kids absolutely LOVED the museum, and I ended up pulling them out after 2 plus hours so that we could see more of Stockholm. Definitely worth another visit!

The Vasa. This photo was taken from one of the many open "loft-like" levels surrounding the ship.

We grabbed a quick bite to eat at a "hotdog" stand outside the museum before walking along the Strandvagen (a main street along the waterfront) and made our way to the old city -- Gamla Stan.

Dan found a comfy spot along the Strandvagen -- perfect place for a happy hour drink!

A view from the Strandvagen to another area of the city. Stockholm is many areas of land surrounded by water.

We passed the royal palace enroute to the old city -- by the way, the kids were on their scooters once again, so the walking was absolutely no problem.

Once we entered the old city, which was incredibly cute with small, narrow streets lined with shops, I was forced to stop at the first souvenir shop on the street -- only feet after entering. The kids were determined to purchase items from just about every place we visited. If it weren't for Terry and my mom, who offered to help the kids navigate their purchases, I wouldn't have seen anything more than two tourist shops. I had ten minutes to myself to stroll through the streets, stop into a few shops here and there, and enjoy the ambiance of the city.

A lovely little street in the Gamla Stan - the old city.

Our gang with Johanna and Stina in the old city of Stockholm.

The building behind Hannah is representative of architecture in Stockholm - onion-shaped domes
and light colored (often yellow or cream - sometimes sienna or burnt orange) buildings.

The scooters were key!

Stina and Johanna along the water in Stockholm.

...speaking of mothers and daughters...my mom and me.

Several houseboats are docked along the Strandvagen in Stockholm. If you look closely,
you'll see this one is equipped with a grill.

Johanna and the kids. The bridge behind them goes to the Vasa Museum.

A view of the Nordiska Museum - the Swedish cultural history museum - from the Strandvagen. It's across from the Vasa Museum.

We didn't see nearly what we wanted to see -- again, I need to return to Stockholm someday -- but it was time to work our way back to the car and return to Koping for dinner.

The next day I celebrated my birthday -- Swedish style! When I came downstairs in the morning, I was greeted by Johanna, Stina, and Bjorn who began to sing at least three different versions of "Happy Birthday" to me in Swedish. It seems the Swedes don't stick to one song -- they have an entire playlist! Also, in Swedish tradition, the breakfast table was set with a napkin that had a tulip printed on it. In Sweden (and perhaps other countries), tulips are a sign of good luck and are often given (either fresh or in the form of a picture) on one's birthday.

My table setting on the morning of my birthday.

My birthday was just perfect -- mostly because it was very relaxing. I went for a walk, which felt great because I had some time to myself and I got a bit of exercise. Then, we went to a nearby lake for a swim. Sweden is dotted with thousands of lakes. I can now understand why the Swedes settled in Minnesota -- land of 10,000 lakes! -- when they emigrated to the US! It must have felt like home. The kids swam while the adults relaxed with magazines, books, and some coffee (yes, it was cool - the kids didn't care, they swam anyway).

Swimming on a cloudy day in a COLD Swedish lake.

Johanna and Hannah sitting on the dock. The red building in the background is very typical for a Swedish home.

Don't I look relaxed?

Hannah, Johanna, and Daniel enjoying the lake.

That evening the Zetterlunds treated me to a dinner that began with a seasonal specialty - crawfish. We sat outside on their covered patio. The Zetterlunds showed us how to open them (very similar to eating lobster, but much smaller. Less meat than a lobster, but more than a crab). We moved inside for dinner and dessert -- my birthday "cake!" The cake was vanilla ice cream, meringues, and strawberries all piled on top of a plate. It was topped with little Swedish flags and a big candle (not 46, thank you!) -- so festive!

Johanna preparing my birthday dinner - THANK YOU Johanna!

The Zetterlund's back patio where we ate our crawfish.

The crawfish!

My mom and Terry dressed for a special birthday dinner.

Stina and Bjorn popped another bottle of champagne for me!

Sina and my mom at the dinner table.

My Swedish birthday cake!

I need to include one other story that is worth relaying, because I think it is good example of why this trip was so incredibly unique and special. While the adults were busy cleaning crawfish and drinking champagne, the boys (and later Hannah) were outside playing. The front of Johanna's home sits on a private circular road, and in the center of this road is a grassy area with a swing set and play area for kids. The boys went outside to play on the swings and two little girls (ironically 8 and 10 years old - like the boys!) and a couple of boys came to play too. Well, despite the huge language barrier -- the girls spoke very little English - they had just begun studying it in school -- they were able to communicate. The girls own two pet rabbits that they brought to the playground. It was remarkable watching the kids interact -- even without the benefit of spoken language. For my kids, the experience was one that they probably would not have had if we had toured Sweden by staying in hotels. Sadly, our schedule and the neighborhood kids' schedule did not coincide again during our stay. But, Johanna told us after we left that the girls had been coming by her home looking for the boys. They must have enjoyed meeting the Americans as much as my kids enjoyed meeting them.

Johanna and Hannah saying hello to the rabbits.

Adam showing one of the neighborhood girls a worm he found.

On our final full day with the Zetterlunds, we travelled to Uppsala, a university town located north of Stockholm and about an hour away from Koping. After arriving in the city, which, by the way, is where Johanna's sister attends university, we went directly to the cathedral. It's a large, impressive building that sits on a hill and towers over the city. It is sort of Uppsala's beacon because one can see it as you approach the city, giving direction to the center of town.

Uppsala Cathedral sits high above the city.

Johanna and the kids walking (well, the kids were scooting!) up the hill to the Cathedral.

This cathedral is not a typical Swedish church (well, not typical for what we saw). Many of the churches we saw in Sweden have rounded domes -- not pointed spires as seen here.

After seeing the cathedral and having a snack and coffee just outside at a little cafe, we walked to the pedestrian shopping area in town. Hannah wanted to check out the H&M (which is a Swedish-based chain - if you don't know it, it's a low-priced but fashionable/trendy clothing store with locations throughout Europe and in some US cities) and the boys were interested in doing some souvenir shopping. So, rather than touring the town, Johanna, my mom and I stayed with the kids and shopped while Terry and Stina went to find the university's main library. From the limited view I had of the city, it seemed to be a lovely old university town -- definitely worth another visit.

A coffee break outside the Uppsala Cathedral.

A street in Uppsala.

Johanna and Hannah on our walk back to the car.

The kids and me -- and a scooter!

Another nice view of the Uppsala waterfront.

That evening the Zetterlunds treated us to another Swedish delicacy....pickled herring, or sill as it's called in Sweden, washed down with aquavit. Sill is traditionally eaten at Christmas, Easter, and Midsummer (a celebration of the summer solstice in June). We were offered about three different varieties of sill and at least as many varieties of aquavit. I've had pickled herring before but only in a sour cream sauce. This time I tried it in a clear pickling liquid -- sort of a sweet/sour flavor -- and one in a light red tomato sauce (plus one or two other varieties). They were all tasty, and I think I liked it more this time than when I had eaten it before -- I think because I've come to enjoy sushi. The idea of eating pickled fish was appealing to me.

As for the aquavit, each had a different flavor -- some of them herbal -- but they were all quite strong and burned going down...and kept on burning for some time! Again, our Swedish hosts had several fun songs to sing for us -- songs traditionally sung when drinking aquavit. I suspect the more one drinks, the more one sings. It was a great way to spend our last night in Koping.

Our selection of Swedish sill. It tastes better than it looks!

Bjorn serving the aquivit, which is served with beer as a chaser.

Hannah and Johanna with their matching (almost) H&M shirts!

The next morning we packed our bags -- amazing how our suitcases seemed to completely explode when we arrived somewhere and opened them -- and began the 4 1/2 hour drive to visit Asa in Gemla.

A group photo just before leaving Koping for Gemla.

Last Stop in Germany -- Eckernforde

2010-08-22T04:17:00.001-04:00

Well, I'm really behind updating the blog. We've been through Germany, spent eleven days in Sweden, and we are now in Paris for the final leg of our journey. But, I'll backtrack a bit (in a few separate postings) and describe our experiences the past few weeks.

Where was I? Oh, yes, we were in Wasbuttel, Germany with Johanna Finke. We left her home on the afternoon of Wednesday, August 4 and drove about 5 hours north into the very northern area of Germany. We had arranged to stay with Frauke and her family in her very small village of Windeby - very close to Eckernforde on the Baltic Sea.

The back of the Fabel home.

The journey was fine -- I've become quite comfortable driving on the uber fast autobahns in Germany. What we've all heard about those roads is true -- there are areas with not posted speed limits. So, I stayed primarily in the right lane driving 120-130 kilometers (a snail's pace at 75-80 mph) while being passed by speeding Audis, Mercedes, and BMWs.

We ran into our first traffic jam on this drive -- something that seems to be well controlled on European highways with little construction (the highways are in very good condition, so they must do road work at some point), a very structured system of driving on the right while passing on the left, and a series of roundabouts on the secondary roads to keep traffic moving by not using stop lights or stop signs. We were warned about the tunnel under the Elbe River in Hamburg, which is exactly where we were delayed by an extra 45 minutes to an hour.

With our trusty GPS (truly amazing technology -- it accurately leads us to even the most remote addresses!), we arrived in Windeby in the early evening just in time for dinner.

Our plan at this stop was to stay in Frauke's neighbor's guesthouse, but there was a miscommunication and the place was being used. Frauke's family were wonderful and managed to fit all of us in their home -- Frauke (who no longer lives at home) slept on a mattress in the living area! We all had the second floor to ourselves -- and two of the kids were pumped to sleep in a loft above Frauke's room. In the end, the accommodations worked out just fine. My only concern was that we had arranged to stay for five nights thinking that we would not be a huge burden on the Fabel's, but now that we were actually in their home, I felt as if we were staying a tad longer than I would have otherwise. But, we were there, the family was incredibly welcoming (we had another American flag upon our arrival and a bottle of celebratory champagne), and we had a flight to Sweden on the back end of our stay, so there was no leaving earlier than planned.

The view from our bedroom at the Fabel home.

The front yard of the Fabel's and the neighbor's thatched roof home.

Daniel with the American flag.

I have to describe dinner. The food on this journey seems to be a main focus for us. It may be, in part, because I'm a foodie, but it's also because each of our host families has gone all out to show us the best of their world and that almost always involves the local foods, flavors, and culinary customs. The Fabel's introduced us to Danish hotdogs -- Eckernforde is only about a half hour drive from the Danish boarder, so there is a great deal of influence between the two countries.

The table as it looked when we arrived!

The kids were thrilled to actually see a hotdog on a bun that resembled an American hotdog roll. In other parts of Germany and even Switzerland, they became accustomed to eating hotdogs in a hollowed out length of French bread (baguette). But, what makes a Danish hotdog unique are the toppings. I'll try and list them in the exact order (because there IS an exact order) -- ketchup, mustard (more dark than our yellow French's mustard but not super strong), remoulade (sort of a mayonnaise with some pickle -- a little like 1000 Island salad dressing but without the ketchup, so it's more creamy looking), crispy fried onions (little bits that are purchased and are not in any way like our purchased fried onions....they are very lightly battered and fried and so good that I wanted to eat them by the handful!), and bread and butter pickle slices (or sweet pickled cucumbers). It may sound like an odd combination of flavors, but let me tell you, they are fabulous!

We had a terrific night's sleep, woke to a full German breakfast (hard boiled eggs in egg cups, meats, cheeses, fresh rolls and breads from the local bakery, homemade jams, Danish yoghurt - yoghurt is poured from a liter size carton in northern Europe, muesli, Nutella - the kids were THRILLED to see that on the table once again!!!!, sliced cucumbers, tomatoes and sometimes peppers, etc.) We also made great use of our host's washing machine -- always great to have clean clothing.

Our daily breakfast spread!

Irmi with a locally smoked trout that we enjoyed for dinner one night.

Karsten, Frauke's dad, went to work in the morning while Frauke and her mother, Irmi (short for Irmtraude -- I hope I have that spelling correct!!) took us to the beach in Eckernforde for a little tour and to see Trudi. Trudi (the German spelling may be with an "e" instead of an "i") is a seal that has found her way to the beach in Eckernforde and has parked herself there for the summer. She most likely came from the North Sea -- on the opposite side of northern Germany. No one knows why she is there or how long she will stay. She is on the beach most of the time in a roped off area to protect her. She goes into the water sometimes (although she was on the beach while we were there) during the day and almost always in the evening and at night to fish. The kids loved her, and she seems to love kids -- in fact, she almost poses when she has camera-wielding visitors.

Trudi the seal with cabanas in the background.

The kids had a great time playing on the rocks that jutted out into the sea -- well, until the boys fell into the water and emerged wet with a few scrapes and bruises. The town also has a zip line in the beach playground area, so that was a huge attraction.

Dan on the zipline.

Oh, one other cool tidbit about the beach. Local families place personal cabanas on the beach (pictured below). They are small wicker half shell structures that have a bench that seats about two adults. A gate folds up and locks to keep them secure when the owners aren't on the beach and, in Irmi and Karsten's case, they store a small table and other items they need for a sunset drink or a day on the beach. I'm sure the cabanas are found in other European beaches, but this is the first time we've seen them.

The kids in the Fabel's beach cabana.

While we were at the beach, Karsten called and offered up some ideas for the afternoon (well, I should say later in the afternoon -- our days begin late and end late!). One was to meet with friends of theirs on their boat that was docked north of Eckernforde in a small harbor on the Baltic Sea. We would go for cake and coffee and perhaps a short cruise. It sounded like a great idea. So, we met Karsten back at the house for a quick lunch and headed out. On the way, we made a few stops to see some manor houses/small castles and a few other local sites.

We had a personal tour of an old manor house.

When we arrived in Kappeln -- a sweet fishing town on the Baltic Sea -- late in the afternoon. We met Johan and his wife Anika at their boat. By this time it was raining quite heavily, but Johan had a big umbrella that kept us somewhat dry. I don't know much about sailing or boats, but I think it was about 40 feet long. It had a lower deck with a small kitchen, a two bedrooms (one of which was very small), a bathroom, a small powder room -- really a WC, and a table with seating. Irmi had brought a homemade strawberry tart and Anika and Johan had other goodies. We had tea with our cake, and Johan and Anika showed us a special Danish way of drinking tea. I can't recall the name of the tea, but it was a strong black tea. We each had a small cup to which a rock of sugar was added -- about the size of a chocolate truffle. Then, the hot tea was poured over the sugar rock causing the rock to crackle and pop (yes, sort of like the cereal). Cream (or heavy milk but it looked like cream to me) was poured onto the top so it swirled into the tea. I stirred my tea, but the idea is that you should drink the tea without stirring.

Our special Danish tea.

Terry, Dan and Hannah before cake was served on the boat.

After our cake and tea (which was unfortunately interrupted by little scare with Adam and his nut allergies -- long story, but Adam has some mild to moderate nut allergies and nuts are in virtually ALL baked good in Europe. He had a bite of some cake and announced that his mouth felt funny...of course, I could not find the Benadryl that I vowed to carry with me everywhere! I had an epipen, but the condition wasn't that severe. My mom had left her bag in the car, which contained a Benadryl, and Karsten offered to walk back to the car in the teaming rain to fetch it for her. All was well...just a little scare (well, a BIG scare for me) and Adam felt fine after taking the meds.

Johan offered to take us all for a short ride, and we gladly accepted. We cruised around the harbor -- beautiful northern German countryside with a stormy sky as a backdrop -- and into the Baltic Sea before turning around and returning to port. Johan was terrific with the kids and gave each of them a chance to steer the boat. It was a great day -- yet another day that was so much more special because we were given a more local view of life in Europe.

Dan learning the ropes!

Hannah, Johan and Karsten readying the boat for departure.

Johan and Daniel steering the boat out of the harbor.

Adam taking his turn.

Hannah

A few thatched roof houses along the banks of the Baltic Sea inlet.

A passing boat.

A German flag on a boat and a lighthouse at the area where the harbor meets the Baltic Sea.

Friday morning (August 6) Frauke and the kids went for a swim/walk on the beach and a round of minigolf. Irmi escorted Terry, my mom, and me into downtown Eckernforde for a little tour and a bit of shopping. The city is really a village that is situated directly on the water. The streets are cobblestone, church steeples are the highest point of the skyline, and fishing boats dock along the harbor area. It's a summertime tourist destination and, because of this special role, the grocery stores and shops are opened on Sundays, which is not the case throughout most of Germany.

Eckernforde is a lovely seaside town.

An Eckernforde street.

We met Karsten at home in the afternoon and decided to take a trip to the North Sea -- about an hour drive from Eckernforde. The North Sea coastline is dotted with small islands. Some are protected by rising waters from levees while others lose part of their land when the tide comes in. We drove out to an island -- I'm embarrassed I don't remember the name -- that was covered with grazing sheep. The sheep roamed wildly and often walked into the one-lane road preventing the cars from moving any further. One other note about northern Germany (and much of Germany for that matter) -- they have cornered the market on wind energy. As we drove through the countryside, we saw fields and fields of HUGE windmills, pictured below.

A windmill field taken from our moving car.

Hannah saying hello to one of the sheep.

I think the sheep are posing for Frauke.

About halfway into the drive down the island road, we stopped at a small cottage that was used as a birding station. It was closed, but Irmi (unbeknownst to us) brought along a thermos of coffee and cookies. We found a bench on the sunny side of the cottage and Irmi found a small folding table on the porch of the cottage that she carried around to use as a serving area. We sat for a bit and drank our hot coffee (the day was sunny but cool) and ate our butter cookies.

Our coffee break - thanks to Irmi!!

Irmi and Terry walking towards the Sea.

At the end of the island, we parked the car and walked towards the water, which was just beginning to rise from the incoming tide. The bottom of the sea (set below a tall sea wall of stone) was a muddy sand, but the kids, Karsten, Irmi, and I removed our shoes and walked into the sea. A father and his children were way out into the water, which was quite shallow way out into the sea. Hannah and Adam walked out quite a distance, but I had them come back in since the tide was rising. We sat on the steps to the sea and timed how long it took for the water to rise from one step to the next. Each step was about 1 foot high and the water rose about 3 inches in 7 minutes. The kids had fun watching the water rise so quickly, and Hannah caught a small North Sea shrimp.

Standing in the North Sea mud before the tide came in.

Hannah's North Sea shrimp.

On Saturday we travelled to Hamburg where we split into two groups. Frauke and I took the kids to the zoo while my mom, Terry, Karsten, and Irmi went to the Emigration Museum. I can't speak about the museum but the zoo was fabulous. It's situated in the city but once inside the gates, you're surrounded by trees and greenery. All the animals live in incredibly natural settings. We all met near the harbor area later that evening for one of our few restaurant meals.

Daniel and Frauke at the zoo.

Hannah and Frauke in front of the elephants.

The kids enjoying some popcorn at the zoo.

Scooting along the harbor in Hamburg.

Waiting for the boys along the Hamburg harbor.

Hamburg

We spent Sunday (a rainy day) finishing up some laundry, catching up on e-mails, and repacking our suitcases. The next day, Monday the 9th, was departure day. We flew from Lubeck, Germany to Stockholm, Sweden to see the final two au pairs on our journey. So, after a very teary goodbye to Frauke and her family, we were off...

Hercules, the big, FAT cat.

Off to Wasbuttel to See Johanna Finke

2010-08-14T18:58:00.000-04:00

Again, we left late for our next destination...it's always so difficult to leave one place and go to the next. This trip has been amazing, but I do feel as if I'm on an emotional roller coaster -- relishing the hellos and fearing the goodbyes. This time we said goodbye to Monika (she and Mirko may be planning a trip to New York in the next year or two, and we'll see them if it all works out, but I'm afraid it may be another eight years before we say hello again) and hello to Johanna Finke. I make a distinction with Johanna's last name because we had two Johanna au pairs (the other is Johanna Zetterlund in Sweden).

The ride wasn't bad -- maybe two hours. Johanna lives in a small town called Wasbuttel not far from Braunschweig, Germany. As we drove along the road with our trusty GPS, we knew the house immediately by the huge American flag hanging from the second floor window.

The American flag hung from the window when we arrived.

Johanna and her entire family -- mother, father, sister, brother-in-law, brother, friend, and downstairs neighbor/landlady (a third grandmother, really) -- came to greet us at our car and to help carry our luggage to the third floor of the home where we were staying. I must mention here how truly remarkable it has been staying in European homes and the extent to which all of our host families have gone to make our stay comfortable. Most of the homes are much smaller than American homes, and families have given up beds for us. Johanna's family was no exception -- her parents slept on makeshift beds in the downstairs living area so that our group could have the entire bedroom area to ourselves!

After showing us our sleeping rooms, we joined the family with a champagne welcome toast on the back deck and enjoyed a huge spread of potato salads, green salad, barbecue bratwurst, chicken and other meats. The conversation was lively and the wine flowed.... Dessert was what seems to be a German specialty (although with slight variations from place to place) of whipped cream and mascarpone cheese on top of fresh or thawed berries. It's quite light and refreshing after a big summer meal.

A champagne toast for our arrival.

The next morning we headed to Braunschweig for a little tour of the city. The kids, Johanna, and I visited a very cool mall that is built behind the facade of an old palace -- called Schloss Arkaden (castle arcade if translated literally). Hannah and Daniel were dying to get a Starbucks Frapuccino, and we all enjoyed a bit of shopping. Hannah is especially fond of H&M! My mom and Terry went with Gerald (Johanna's father) to an old church. The kids are understandably less interested in historical sites and more interested in more contemporary attractions!

The Schloss Arkaden in Braunschweig.

Johanna and Hannah at a German Starbucks!

We returned to Johanna's home in the afternoon for some cake and coffee -- a German afternoon tradition that I find particularly civilized.

Homemade blueberry cake -- an afternoon treat.

From there we headed to Wolfsburg, home of Volkswagen Automobiles. From what I understood, the Volkswagen "City" was built as part of a World Exposition held in Braunschweig a few years ago, and it is really amazing. There are plenty of activities for children (kids spend 45 minutes learning road signs and then how to drive a toy car before receiving a "real" drivers license, they can build a virtual car, and, for younger kids, they can ride around an indoor track in a small vehicle), a vintage auto museum, restaurants, a lighted laser water show, and much more. It was a real hit with the kids!

A bird's eye view of the driving test course for kids at the Volkswagen facility in Wolfsburg.

Adam in his car taking his driving test.

Daniel waiting his turn to park his car.

Hannah following the German street signs.

Adam receiving his license!

The kids had fun designing their own cars.

A view of a portion of the Volkswagen facility.

Our group enjoying an Italian dinner at the Volkswagen facility.

Dorothee, Johanna, and Gerald.

On our last day in Wasbuttel (we stayed for two nights with Johanna -- from Monday, August 2 to Wednesday, August 4), we took a quick driving tour through the small village of Wasbuttel, went to a grocery story and pharmacy to pick up a few items (and, really, to take a tour -- seeing a foreign grocery store is quite exciting for Terry and me), and the kids went to feed Johanna's chickens (yes, we ate fresh eggs for breakfast!).

The garden at Johanna's home.

Hannah feeding the chickens.

The kids having fun with bubbles on Johanna's deck.

Time to say goodbye again.

As has become our habit, we left in the afternoon for a 4-hour drive to Eckernforde, Germany to visit Frauke and her family.

Another long day....

Next Stop....Schloss Holte, Germany for a Visit with Monika

2010-08-11T12:01:00.001-04:00

We've been au pair hopping our way across northern Germany leaving Eva's home on Sunday the 1st of August for a short drive to Monika's home in Schloss Holte (yes, I'm really behind in my posts -- we're in Sweden now!). On a map, we started in the northwest and are slowly making our way to the north central area near Hannover. Then our plan is to shoot north to the Baltic coast.

Our intention was to leave Eva's by 3:30 or 4pm and arrive at Monika's by 5. But, we can't quite to seem keep on schedule, so we left a bit later.

Monika was our second au pair, and she is now married and has three children -- a 2 1/2 year old boy named Julian and twin 11-month old boys -- Jonas and Max. Yes, she is busy...in fact, she needs her own au pair!

After arriving, Monika and her husband Mirko put the twins to bed and prepared a barbecue for us. We had a great dinner and spent time catching up and looking at photos of Monika's stay with us in PA. Adam and Daniel didn't have much memory of Monika -- she left our family when Adam was only one -- so, the photos were a terrific way to tell them the story.

Monika and her husband Mirko.

Monika and 2 1/2 year old Julian.

We only had one night with Monika -- she would have liked us to stay longer, but we knew she would be so busy with her three children and didn't want to overburden her. We stayed the night and into the next afternoon.

The kids loved jumping on the neighbor's trampoline...and the also loved spending time with Julian and the twins. Julian, like any two year old, is still learning words and how to put together simple sentences. As a result, we were really able to observe how young children can easily learn languages at an early age. He was completely open to us using our English to name simple objects around the house (he repeated most of what we said) -- the same as he was open to his mother teaching him the German word for the same objects. And, because his German was so simple, we actually understood some of what he was saying...and he taught us some words!

Julian, Jonas (back left), and Max.

Jonas and me.

Hannah and Max.

Peg and Terry help out with feeding the twins.

Adam, Daniel, and Hannah with two on-the-move twins!

Our one outing for the day was a trip to the center of town for some ice cream. The town was small but quaint, and the walk was just long enough for the boys. Monika pulled Julian in a wagon while Hannah pushed the twins in their double stroller.

Hannah pushes the twins in their stroller. Monika got each of them an empty cone and then dabbed the top of each in her ice cream. They didn't seem to know that they didn't have a full ice cream cone!

Monika and me. It's been 7 years since I've seen her.

Adam, Daniel, Monika, and Hannah with Julian.

The day ended too quickly. We needed to leave by late afternoon to arrive at Johanna Finke's in Wasbuttel in time for dinner.

Eva and Leudinghausen, Germany

2010-08-10T18:19:00.001-04:00

Finally, we're back online. We've either been too busy to write or we haven't had a wifi connection. Now, from a Swedish computer (äääåååööö!!!), I'm recounting the first two of nine days in Germany.

On Friday, July 30, we flew from Venice to Dusseldorf for a visit with Eva, one of four German au pairs we visited. We departed our Venice flat at 10am for a half hour water taxi ride to the Venice airport for a 1pm flight...plenty of time to spare. The taxi ride was much like a ride in a NYC cab -- fast and wild. Adam sat in the rear of the boat with his new Swiss hat on his head. I recommended he remove it for fear the wind would take it.

Our water taxi driver in Venice (Mario Andretti) helps Adam into the boat.

Riding through the streets of Venice in a taxi was a truly magical experience.

Adam sits in the back of the boat with Venice behind him.

Once we hit open waters -- Venice's version of the Autobahn -- Adam held onto his cap!

The Venice airport was a mob scene, but the kids are seasoned travelers by now and kept their cool.

Boarding our Air Berlin flight in Venice enroute to Dusseldorf.

The Venice airport was absolute chaos. Finding the Air Berlin counter was nearly impossible, and once we found it, we waited in a long line. Then, the line to pass through airport security was non-existent. Instead, it was a mass of pushing people who, like us, had no idea where to find the end of the line. Finally, after a few aggressive moves, we managed to find our place and work our way to the gate. After checking through security, we had 45 minutes to spare - at most - before our flight departed. One curious note about airport security in Europe - no shoe removal as in the US. I guess I was a bit surprised - I thought security would be tighter in Europe and removing footwear would be essential. Not so.

The short hour-long flight to Dusseldorf was pleasant and smooth. We were greated by Eva - so nice of her to meet us at the airport -- and found our way to the car rental desk where we began a nearly 2-hour experience!

Eva met us at the airport in Dusseldorf

Our car was pre-paid - a minivan to fit seven passengers and baggage. When we arrived at our car (after a normal check in), we discovered a small SUV with seating for five. Impossible for all of us to fit. So, with Eva's help, we went to the garage rental car desk (rather than back to the main terminal) and asked for a car that would seat seven. We found the new car, which looked quite small (but did, indeed, seat seven) and began to load our luggage. After several tries, we came to the conclusion that the luggage would not fit and that the configuration (even if all the bags would have fit) was unsafe -- especially with a large heavy bag stuffed with three scooters.

So, back to the car rental desk we went. The man at the desk told us that he didn't have any larger cars, except for one. Eva and I checked it out -- a Peugot. It wasn't much bigger than the first car, but it was wider. It seemed to me to be a better choice for us. But, the keys were at the desk back in the terminal (rather than at the desk in the garage where we were), so we trudged back to the rental desk in the main terminal for the keys. We all fit in the new car (all seven of us - with Eva), and our luggage mostly fit. Terry ended up with a suitcase on her lap, but we all survived the hour-long trip from Dusseldorf to Leudinghausen.

When we arrived, we were greeted by Eva's parents and brother and a bottle of champagne! We enjoyed a traditional German dinner of beef stew (sort of a goulash) with spatzle and dumplings (I can't recall the German name - maybe Eva will help me!).

Adam, Christine (Eva's mom), Hannah, Max (Eva's brother), and Eva enjoy a laugh.

The next day - Saturday the 31st of July - we visited Munster (a short car ride from Leudinghausen) where we took an informal self-guided tour through the cathedral and then walked the streets. It was market day, so we strolled through the stands of vegetables and fruits, cheeses, sausages and other meats, and many other goods including hand-made jewelry. Our day also included a visit to a few stores for a German soccer shirt for Dan, chocolate for all the kids (Dan got a chocolate Smart Car and Hannah found a chocolate cell phone), a dress from H&M for Hannah, and a few souvenirs and postcards.

Christine and Eva with the kids at the market in Munster.

The cathedral in Munster.

Munster is known as a city of bicycles...and EVERYONE bikes!

Terry and my mom were sleeping at Eva's grandmothers, and that night we went to her home for a barbecue. We were served grilled sausages and bratwurst, steak, and chicken in addition to several sides including Eva's grandmother's German potato salad. Eva's Uncle Peter built a bonfire, and the kids had a great time poking it with sticks, jumping on a trampoline, and playing hide and seek with Eva and her brother Max.

The kids and me with Eva's mother, father, grandmother, and brother.
We had a great barbecue at Eva's grandmother's home.

Peg with Eva's parents - Eva's Uncle Peter was our chef.

This isn't the sharpest photo, but it shows what a great time we had with Eva. The balls were fountains, and Eva had just held her fingers on the spout at the top and sprayed the boys with water.

On Sunday, the day of our departure, we visited a local castle that, according to Eva and her family, is considered the Versaille of Westphalia. It was huge with beautiful sculptured gardens. The castle is not open for tours, but we enjoyed walking the grounds for an hour or so.

Breakfast was always a spread with cheese, meat, hard-boiled eggs, bread, yogurt,
muesli, homemade jams, and vegetables (sliced cucumbers and tomatoes).

Fresh berries from the market in Munster, liverwurst (on the plate - left side),
sliced meats, and homemade apricot and gooseberry jam.

Hannah and Dan's favorite - Nutella! (Adam has a hazlenut alergy, so he misses out).

We returned to Eva's for a cup of coffee and a piece of cheesecake before departing for Schloss Holte, Germany for an overnight visit with Monika.

The castle near Leudinghausen - Schloss Nordkirchen. It was built by a German duke
as a hunting retreat. I believe it was built in 1703.

A self-timed photo of all of us!

Our group at the castle!

Eva and the kids just prior to our departure.

Some Thoughts from Terry on Switzerland & Venice

2010-07-29T12:24:00.001-04:00

We're on the go from a mountain top reached by rail to swimming in a lake, a dinner of raclette, being with, in turn, two aupairs, walking hilly Luzern and for that matter hills signal everywhere in Switzerland, including Zurich where Mark toured us on Sun evening. Train ride of 7 hrs to Venice with the company of word search, beautiful scenery, Suduko, napping, water and a cheese sandwich.

Venice is sunny, busy to us, but not our landlady who told us Venice is too quiet. BOys use their scooters with delight on the piazzas and paths. Hannah too sometimes. Crowds on the vaporetto, but the kids do beautifully. Training on the #1 subway reaps benefits.

About to have pizza in Venice and we'll see how it is rates to Sal and Carmine's. I've already voted, but the kids are withholding their Zagat review until they taste it.

The trip goes well. Seeing everything takes on an extra light, as we see H, D and A take it in. They go with the moment. A hotdog in Switzerland means a chunky sausage in half a baguette with catsup at the bottom.

They taste almost everything and the winner the other evening at the home of Tom's mother was smoked lake trout (delicious for the adults) and gobbled up by Hannah and Dan. One counted 7 pieces and another 5 that they happily ate during the pre-dinner snacks. Zabar's could not match the quality! Magrit, Tom's mom told us it was made by a neighbor just done the street in the small village where she lives.

Three Days in Venice

2010-07-29T12:19:00.001-04:00

After a long train ride with two stops -- one in Switzerland about 25 minutes outside of Luzern and one in Milan -- we arrived in Venice on Tuesday afternoon.

Dan doing his crossword puzzles on the train to Venice.

One quick observation about Swiss vs. Italian trains. Although we never changed trains after entering into Italy, we knew we had crossed the border. It was remarkable. While in Switzerland, the train was running smoothly and on time....to the minute! Upon entering Italy, the train slowed down...then stopped. We heard an announcement about mechanical problems and that we were going to be delayed by about five minutes. We started moving, then slowed again. This went on and on....and we arrived into Milan about 45 minutes late. Luckily, we had an hour to make our connection in Milan, so we had 15 minutes to spare!

Hannah and a Venetian mask.

Getting to our flat was a chore. Our bags seem to be getting heavier and lugging them from the train and onto the Vaporetto and then again through the streets (and up and down several sets of steps over bridges) to our building was quite a journey.

After settling in we went for an early dinner. The kids enjoyed pasta. Terry and I shared a Caprese salad, pasta with small, tender clams, and we each had Bronzino -- Mediterranean sea bass, and of course, wine. One of the things I love most about Europe is the ability to quickly (within a few hours) switch from one culture to another. We went from Rosti potatoes and bratwurst to pasta con vongole.

Adam enjoying his spaghetti pomodoro.

Piazza San Marco was our next stop. The boys brought their scooters to dinner and loved riding around in the open space of the square. Hannah smiled a HUGE grin when Nona gave her some Euros to buy a glass bead bracelet (and today the bracelet is paired with glass earrings!).

The boys riding their scooters before dinner.

Yesterday was a warm and sunny day in Venice, but despite going to bed early, we caught up on much needed sleep in the morning and didn't get out of the apartment until early afternoon! We missed breakfast (and coffee!) and went straight for lunch at a hotel cafe across the street. We all had pizza -- the kids declared, "If Sal & Carmines is 10, this is 12," "It's a mile better," and, according to Adam, "It's the same." (Perhaps Adam, at age 8, has not yet developed his taste buds to thoroughly appreciated the nuances between NYC pizza and Venetian pizza) So, there you go....pizza is pretty tasty in Italy!

Adam and his scooter in front of our flat.

Hannah and Webby, our landlord's dog. We miss Nellie!

Our resident wash maids doing their chores! This trip isn't all glamour and glitz, after all.

The kids weren't up to touring historical sites, so we took the Vaporetto to the Lido -- the beach on the Adriatic Sea. The beach was crowded and the water was warm. All three kids enjoyed a swim while Nona and Peg relaxed. I stood at the water's edge watching with an eagle eye. Mark -- you'll be glad to learn that none of the children has grown an extra appendage as a result of swimming in "dirty Venice water." Actually, the water looked quite clean...and judging from the crowds of swimmers on the beach with us, it's a common pastime for the locals in the warmer months.

Swimming in the sea.

A gelato after our day at the Lido.

A view of Venice from the Vaporetto.

The view from our flat.

Hannah and Dan waiting for our pizza to arrive. Dan is already in the Italia mood with his "football" shirt.

Today we awoke to huge rain and thunder showers that have continued throughout the day. We've taken it easy....a walk to a local cafe for a coffee, some scootering around the neighborhood, and a few games of Bananagrams and Uno. Oh, and we saw a HUGE cruise ship coming into Venice harbor from our street. The boys were impressed, and Dan declared that next year for his birthday he wants to go on a cruise in the Mediterranean!

The boys loved riding their scooters in the rain. I was terrified they'd ride straight into the canal!

A GIANT cruise ship at the end of our street.

Great dinner tonight in a small restaurant that served more than the standard pasta and pizza. Hannah, my mom and Terry all had pumpkin lasagna, for example. We missed out on gelato after dinner -- many shops close on the early side in our neighborhood. So, we came home and packed our bags for our afternoon flight tomorrow from Venice to Dusseldorf, Germany where we'll meet Eva, our au pair in 2009.

Arrivederci Venezia!

Final Few Days in Switzerland

2010-07-29T04:57:00.000-04:00

Wow. We've been busy. So, I'm going to try and do a catch up post on our last four days in Switzerland.

On Saturday Mark and our group (including Kathi!) took the train to St. Gallen, which is in northeast Switzerland very near Austria and Germany and within a few miles of Lake Constance (or Bodensee). Tom's mom lives in St. Gallen -- well, just outside of the city in a town called Roggwil -- and we were spending the night in her home.

Kathi and Hannah on the train ride from Luzern to St. Gallen.

A view outside of the train window - beautiful scenery.

Terry, Peg, Mark, and Dan on the train. Mark brought along some snacks!

We arrived in St. Gallen at about 4pm and took a quick walking tour through the city despite the rain.

St. Gallen is a quaint city - rain or shine.

Most shops and other sites closed at 5, so we hopped on a bus to Margaret's home where we were warmly greeted with a yummy spread and some local white wine.

Just a quick note about transportation in Switzerland -- the train system is extensive with stations in many cities and towns. If a town does not have train service, ultra clean and efficient buses travel to those towns. So, virtually every town in Switzerland, regardless of size, is accessible by public transit. And, buses and trains are on time, every time....to the minute!

Margaret made a great dinner of veal strips cooked in a mushroom cream sauce (traditional Swiss dish) followed by a berry cream/mascarpone dessert.

Margaret greeted us from her window.

Tom and Adam enjoying a cocktail! No, it's sparkly apple juice in a Heineken glass for Adam!

Peg, Kathi and Adam.

Tom taught the kids this fun trick with some classic Swiss candy! It's not as easy as it may seem.

A fun game after dinner.

I must say, the kids continue to amaze me with their adventurous attitude about eating in Europe. Unlike the States, we haven't come across one children's menu. So, the kids eat whatever the adults eat and seem to be liking it. Imagine that! Kids eating food other than chicken fingers, pizza, or mac and cheese! We Americans have it ALL wrong as far as this goes. Also, the kids are over eating soft, squishy bread. Most mornings while in Switzerland, they each had a piece of grainy brown bread spread with Nutella or jam. I guess if the choice is grainy bread or nothing...then, grainy bread it is!

The next morning, Margaret prepared a fabulous brunch for us -- meats, cheeses, breads, yogurt, muesli, soft or hard boiled eggs...a traditional Swiss feast. After eating, the kids rode their scooters up and down Margaret's street in her very quiet town. They discovered the home of a neighbor who kept the cutest long-eared rabbits. They were funny looking (their ears dragged as they walked), but were very friendly and sweet. Hannah knelt down and called them, and they hopped over to the fence for a little love.

The Sunday morning view from my bedroom window. I woke up, opened the shutters and heard the clip clop of horse hooves and church bells.

Hannah and Kathi before brunch.

Hannah and Dan saying hello to the floppy-eared bunnies.

Riding scooters down the BIG hill was a thrill for the kids and a fright for me.

We sadly said goodbye to Kathi -- it was great spending a few days with her! We took a quick walking tour of Roggwil, and then Mark led us via bus first to a nearby town situated on Lake Constance and then to an old Medieval city called Stein am Rhein for a quick tour. It was a picture perfect little town -- on the Rhine River, of course. We walked through the streets a bit, took some photos, and then headed back to the train.

A sad goodbye to Kathi as she headed back to Austria. We can't wait to see her again -- maybe in the States next time?

Margaret's little town, Roggwil, is serene and picturesque.

Adam in Roggwil.

Adam and Hannah drinking from the town's fountain - a fixture in many Swiss towns that we visited.

Mark and Margaret planning our day!

Stein am Rein. Notice the castle on the top of the hill behind the city.

Peg, Hannah, Terry, and Dan crossing the Rhine into Stein am Rhein.

Our tireless host.

Dan making a funny face in the center of town.

From there we travelled to Zurich. Again, Mark led us around the town on a great walking tour. Although I've flown into Zurich twice, I've never really seen the city. I was incredibly impressed and would love to go back. Zurich is a beautiful old city. It's very hilly and situated on a river. The winding cobblestone streets give it an old-world feel, but it is cosmopolitan as well. We saw trendy restaurants, high-end shops, and lots of young people.

Terry, Hannah and Peg with Lake Zurich in the background.

A fun part of the river park in Zurich!

Zurich at night. If you look closely, you'll see a full moon to the left of the towers.

I'm trying to not post too many scenery photos, but I have to stick a few in. This is in Zurich.

A game of Uno on the train back to Luzern -- it had to be close to midnight! The kids are still on EST.

Monday was a quiet day. We did a bit of laundry at Mark's before heading into town for a visit to the EF offices in Luzern (where Mark works and where EF Cultural Care offices are located. Cultural Care is the organization that helped us find our ten fabulous au pairs) followed by a great lunch at the top of the Montana Hotel.

We sat outside on the roof deck, which had a great view of Luzern. We were enjoying the gorgeous scenery and sunny day when a large gray storm cloud rolled in. Before we knew what hit us, we were sitting under our huge patio umbrella in the middle of a torrential downpour. By the time we realized how bad it was, it was too late to move. So, we laughed and made the best of our soggy situation and tipped the waitress well for dodging raindrops as she ran to our table with our food!

Our friends at Cultural Care Au Pair in Luzern!

Mark under the EF flag on top of the building.

A great shot of our group overlooking Luzern. This is taken from the EF building.

Lunch at the top of the Montana Hotel -- before the rain storm!

The highlight of the day had to be dinner. Mark wanted the kids to experience Swiss traditions, so he took us to an ultra touristy, classic Swiss restaurant -- complete with a show of yodeling Swiss maids, Alpine horns, and cowbells! We ate fondue, bratwurst, and rosti potatoes. The kids weren't quite sure what to make of it -- but finally came around when Mark, Terry, and Adam got up and joined the conga line! (I know, doesn't sound too Swiss, but it sure was fun!).

Swiss cheese fondue. The kids thought it was more fun making it than eating it. The cheese was too strong for their tastebuds.

Alpine horns. Heidi was there too!

The end of the conga line!

We left the next morning -- after a great send off from Tom and Mark. Not only did we get a ride to the train station (us and ALL of our increasingly souvenir-laden bags!), we got a BIG bag full of pastries, which, by the way, served as breakfast, lunch....and even breakfast today on our first morning in Venice!

An early morning goodbye to Mark and Tom. See you in the States!

Rainy Day

2010-07-25T21:18:00.002-04:00

Friday July 23rd

Today we had a well needed day of rest. A steady rain was the perfect backdrop for "Apples to Apples" played by Terry, the kids and the newly arrived Kathi who took a train from Austria this morning to spend the weekend with us.

The kids talk to Kathi on Skype periodically and therefore she has remained a part of their lives thanks to modern technology. It was as if she never left Pam's house.

Pam and i did some work on the computer for a few hours while Nonna, Hannah and Kathi went looking for nail polish and a few other things. The nail polish will have to wait since it was over $15 dollars a bottle. We also caught up on some laundry after some instruction from Kathi on the use of the European washer and dryer in the home. Why can't our country come up with machines equal to these very efficient marvels?

Mark and Tom came home from work later in the day, once again laden with the ingredients for a feast.

Tonight we had a traditional Swiss Raclette dinner. Dan, Adam and Hannah did a great job cooking our meats, fishes and vegetables to eat with various sauces.

Pilatus appeared just in time for dinner on this wonderful rainy day.

Peg

Visit to Basel

2010-07-25T18:31:00.000-04:00

Thanks for posting Pam!

It was great to visit Sara and her parents. Sara met us at the train station in Basel which is near her parents' home. I have to admit I teared up a bit when I saw Sara for the first time in so many years. It suddenly became apparent what an important role these aupairs have played in my grandchildren's lives. I remember how difficult it was to say goodbye to each girl as she left at the end of the year. We had all considered all of the aupairs members of our families and enjoyed watching each one grow with their experience in a new country with a different language and different customs from their own.

Basel is a beautiful little medieval town. The following is lifted from one of the travel sites:

''Since the Middle Ages, Basel has been an important crossroads of commerce and transportation, mainly due to navigation on the Rhine River. Ferries, roundtrip river cruises and lock gates link Basel's four harbors and sights.

On fascinating walking tours, visitors can discover the Old Town, which is dotted with buildings dating from the 15th century. The large market square, for example, is dominated by a townhall built between 1507 and 1513. The Spalentor, one of Switzerland's most beautiful city gates, was erected in the late 14th century. Basel's true landmark, however, is the Minster with its slender spires. It was built in different architectural styles between 1019 and 1500.''

Art Basel is a well known art fair held yearly in the town and is well regarded by The NY Times, Vogue and the daily parisian Le Monde. Pam picked up on the "edginess" of the town. After checking a few internet sites, I can see why.

Here are a few links on the history, Munster etc.

http://www.isyours.com/e/guide/basel/munster.html

http://www.isyours.com/e/guide/basel/history.html

http://www.isyours.com/e/guide/basel/lsd.html

There is a lot more information on the above site and the internet.

Sara did a good job in orienting us to the city. We saw the major attractions and heard about the influence of pharmaceuticals on the area. Of course we were able to see the town through the eyes of an eight, ten and twelve year old which is priceless.

Our Visit with Sara in Basel

2010-07-23T21:39:00.000-04:00

Yesterday was a great day. We took an hour-long train ride to visit Sara in her home city of Basel. I had seen her a few years ago when I visited Switzerland with my sister Jessica and my brother Paul, but this was the first time the kids had seen her since she left our home in 2004. At the time of her departure from our family, Adam was not yet three years old, Dan was four, and Hannah was six.

Although Hannah knows who Sara is through chats on Skype and birthday cards, she does not have a memory of her when she was with us. Neither, of course, does Adam. However, Dan claims to remember Sara, but I'm not certain of how vivid those memories are. In any event, the kids were a bit shy at first but soon became more at ease as we spent more time together.

Adam and Iggy -- his class "pet" -- on the train to Basel.

Basel is separated by the Rhine River, and there is a small passenger boat that carries people from one side of the river to the other. The boat is tethered to a line that connects one bank to the other. This line keeps the boat on coarse since the current is quite strong.

Daniel, Hannah and Sara on the boat crossing the Rhine River.

The first stop on our walking tour of Basel was one of the city's oldest cathedrals -- Munster Cathedral, built 800 or 900 years ago. It was quite impressive, but they boys weren't at all interested. They didn't seem to grasp just how old the building was -- plus, they are still suffering from jet lag and were dragging.

Rather than continue with an historical tour, we decided to grab a bite to eat. I also thought a bottle of Coke for each of them would do the trick and wake them up just a bit. We found a small take-out panini shop on a pedestrian street in the old town of Basel and enjoyed a leisurely lunch. I'm not sure if it was the Cokes or the Game Stop store (!) the boys discovered, but whatever it was, they perked up quickly!

The boys enjoying shopping for souvenirs!

After a few hours of enjoying the old town and visiting a few souvenir shops, we took the tram to Allschwil, the small town outside of Basel where Sara's parents live (and where she grew up). Again, I had been to Allschwil before, but it was a pleasure to see it again. We went to Sara's home for coffee and cake with her parents and then took a short walking tour through the small cobblestone streets lined with wood-beamed Tudor style homes. Sara's home -- and I suspect many others in the town -- is about 250 years old. Just amazing. Even the kids were impressed!

The kids and me with Sara and her parents in front of her home.

A beautiful garden in Allschwil.

Sara, Hannah and Terry walking through Allschwil.

The wood-beamed homes in the town are about 250 years old.

Adam at a watering trough.

A quaint restaurant in the town.

Waiting for our train back to Luzern.

The kids and Nonna after a wonderful day.

The Hills are Alive!

2010-07-21T19:47:00.001-04:00

We couldn't help but think of Maria and the Sound of Music as we climbed higher and higher by cograil to the top of Mt. Rigi today.

The kids and me overlooking Lake Luzern

The mountain is on Lake Luzern, and to get there we boarded a steamboat near Mark's home. It was another hot day, so being on the Lake was incredibly refreshing. The kids were ready to jump in for a swim (but that came later in the day!).

Upon arriving at the top, we stopped to have a drink, and the kids had some lunch. They are still struggling with jet lag, so I actually encouraged Dan (who was especially punky) to drink a Coke -- I thought that caffeine and some sugar would do him some good!

We are all still suffering from jet lag!

After lunch, mom and Terry rode the cograil down while Tom (our trusty guide - Mark was working), the kids and I hiked down. The scenery was absolutely spectacular -- and the sounds of cowbells completed the picture postcard experience.

The boat took us back to Luzern where we went to a really cool bath house for a swim. The Swiss are doing something right with their conservation efforts -- the lake water is a Mediterranean blue and is crystal clear. The kids loved it. This bathing spot provided a sectioned off area for shallow swimming -- but also offered an area where swimmers clim into the water and swim out to floating logs. The trick is to stay on the logs without tumbling off into the water. It was a great end to a hot and sunny afternoon. The swimming also helped to wake us all up a bit in the late afternoon when we all begin to fade.

Dan, Tom, Hannah, and Adam holding on tightly to the floating log!

Oh, I haven't yet mentioned Mark and Tom's rigged outdoor shower. It's set up on their patio, which has a fabulous view of one of the tallest mountains around. Hannah is hooked. She took a shower outside last night and tonight, and Dan gave it a try tonight. Forget the Alps....I predict that the shower will be a lasting memory of our time in Switzerland.

Dan enjoying an outdoor shower on Mark & Tom's patio - with an amazing mountain view.

Tomorrow we head to Basel to spend the day with Sara. Sara was our fourth au pair and hasn't seen the kids in about five years! Adam was not yet three when she finished her year with us.

Luzern, Switzerland

2010-07-20T10:44:00.002-04:00

It's day one in Luzern, Switzerland. After a somewhat rocky start with a delayed flight, a bus trip to Philadelphia (a result of our delayed flight!), an 8-hour flight, and a one-hour train ride from Zurich, we're at Mark and Tom's place in Luzern.

Departure day in Kingston.

Adam conked on the plane

It's a gorgeous day here. Mark met us at the train station -- Tom had the car waiting for our luggage. The kids piled into the car with Tom while Terry, mom and I went to the outdoor market with Mark. In typical Mark style, he overloaded our hands with bags and bags of fresh vegetables, fruits, cheeses, and breads.

We hopped on the bus back to the house and enjoyed a magnificent feast on the patio -- with a gorgeous view of the mountains.

After lunch, we all crashed for a bit -- well, except for the boys who seem to be running on adrenaline.

We trying to motivate to take a walk down to the lake for a swim -- that should wake us up a bit. Our hope is that we'll be able to stay awake until a reasonable bedtime hour and get a good night's sleep.

New and Improved Itinerary!

2010-04-16T17:08:00.000-04:00

Our itinerary has changed slightly, and (I believe!) this is the final schedule. We had planned on staying three nights on our own in Stockholm, but Johanna's family was so kind to invite us to spend a few nights with them at their home in Koping. So, we'll be doing a day trip to Stockholm and -- as an added bonus -- may visit Uppsala to see the city and meet with Johanna's sister, Camilla.

So, here it is. All flights are booked, cars are rented, train tickets will be reserved in the coming weeks, passports are secured (the kids were VERY excited to receive their own passport -- and, I might add, it's no easy task to get passports for children - both parents need to be present, office is only open until 4pm - before they arrive home from school, etc.).... I think we're good to go.

July 19 Depart Wilkes-Barre for Zurich (via Philadelphia)

July 20 - 27 Lucerne, Switzerland

July 27 - 30 Venice, Italy

July 30 - August 1 Luedinghausen, Germany (Eva)

August 1 - 2 Schloss Holte, Germany (Monika)

August 2 - 4 Wasbettel, Germany (Johanna)

August 4 - 9 Eckernforde, Germany (Frauke)

August 9 - 13 Koping, Sweden (Johanna)

August 13 - 15 Gemla, Sweden (Asa)

August 15 - 18 Kalmar, Sweden (Asa)

August 18 - 20 Goteborg, Sweden (Johanna)

August 20 - 26 Paris, France

August 26 Depart Paris for Wilkes-Barre (via Philadelphia)

Another Itinerary Change?

2010-02-15T16:18:00.008-05:00

Seems like our itinerary will never be final! Just this weekend I received a message back from Monika, our second au pair, who lives in northern Germany. I had planned on making a day visit to Monika knowing that she had a baby and would probably be so busy that she wouldn't have much time to spend with us. I also didn't want to add extra stress to her life -- I know what it's like to entertain with young kids running around! Not easy.

So, I sent Monika a quick note letting her know of our plans to drive through her town on Monday, August 2 enroute from Luedinghausen (Eva) to Braunschweig (Johanna Finke). Well, Monika quickly wrote back -- and sent photos of her five-month-old twin boys (!) and her two year old. WOW. I thought she was busy with one! (Needless to say, Monika and I hadn't been in touch for the last, well....14 or 15 months!)

Monika and Mirko's children: Julian (2) with Jonas and Max (5 1/2 months).

Max and Jonas

Julian with his Santa hat!

But, Monika amazed me and offered to house us for a few days. When I told her it may be best if we just come for the day, she was so disappointed. She explained that we wouldn't really have time to talk and catch up until after her kids were tucked into bed at night (rightly, as I recall those days with young children), and that it would be so nice if we could all stay for at least one night. She also wants me to meet her husband (who was her boyfriend while she lived with me in 2002).

Monika's reaction reminded me about what this trip is all about....it's not about the sightseeing (although that will be fun); it's about reconnecting with a group of VERY special people. My big problem is that we can't add days to our trip, so I need to rearrange the schedule a bit. I've decided to contact Eva and explain the situation and hope she understands that we'll leave her home a day earlier than planned to spend the night with Monika and Mirko. We owe it to ourselves and we owe it to Monika to spend a bit more time with her.

So....the schedule will change once again.....for the better, I think. Can't wait to spend time with Monika's children.

More Background...

2010-02-14T09:44:00.004-05:00

Thanks Pam for getting our blog started and thank you for coming up with the trip idea in the first place. What a great opportunity to get to see and meet our au pairs once again, this time in their own homes and countries. During the planning of this trip we have been introduced to or stumbled upon websites that have been very helpful. For flights, www.skyscanner.com or www.kayak.com have enabled us to find the smaller intracountry flights that cut down on time and costs while traveling, www.ricksteves.com is great for general travel information, and of course googling for specific info. We are being hosted by the au pairs and friends and have found lodging in Venice and Stockholm that will be family friendly. Now that the housing is confirmed and frequent flyer miles have been exhausted, we are started to think about our communication with each other via texting and talking with friends and family at home. We will have Skype on Pam's computer which will allow us to chat via phone when we have a computer connection. This blog will also help in our communication efforts. Of course we will be training our "nontechies" in the use of the computer and the use of the blog during the coming months. For our cell phones and the computer we need to work out the details of charging our units in the different countries. Let us know if anyone has any chargers we can borrow. I have a motorola razor.

Just an Overview

2010-02-14T02:28:00.002-05:00

I think the best way to get this blog started -- several months before our actual trip begins -- is by jotting down our current itinerary. We've been working diligently for the past month piecing our trip together, checking and re-checking au pair schedules, and comparing pricing (car rental vs. train vs. plane). After several versions, I think we finally have our itinerary down. Our flight to Zurich -- with a return from Paris -- is booked. We've also booked a total of three intra-Europe flights -- from Venice to Dusseldorf, from Hamburg to Stockholm, and from Stockholm to Paris. We're still working on finalizing the car rental, but we have some time for that.

So, this is the plan:

July 19 Depart Wilkes-Barre for Zurich (via Philadelphia)
July 20 - 27 Lucerne, Switzerland
July 27 - 30 Venice, Italy
July 30 - August 2 Luedinghausen, Germany
August 2 - 4 Braunschweig, Germany
August 4 - 9 Eckernforde, Germany
August 9 Koping, Sweden
August 10 - 13 Gothenburg, Sweden
August 13 Gemla, Sweden
August 14 - 17 Kalmar, Sweden
August 17 - 20 Stockholm, Sweden
August 20 - 26 Paris, France
August 26 Depart Paris for Wilkes-Barre (via Philadelphia)